0 Beware Telephone Scam! "Microsoft" Says Your Computer Has a Virus

A Common Computer Fraud

I just received a scam phone call, and I want to warn you so you don't fall for it. The scammer pretends to be from Microsoft or some other legitimate company to trick you.

Even if you wouldn't be fooled, please warn friends and relatives (especially elderly ones) who might not be aware of scams like this. Victims of this fraud could suffer anything from identity theft to having their computer hijacked and used to send spam or viruses without their knowledge.

[Update 5/2012: or the scammer could bilk you out of $150 or more, see the experience of commenter LGNTexas in the guestbook at the end of this page.]

"Your Computer Has a Virus"

Here's my transcript of this scam phone call. In my case, they didn't pretend to be Microsoft, but that's the more common version of the fraud.

[Heavily-accented Indian volce]: Hello? Hello?

Me: Who's calling, please?
Him: IT Solutions. We are calling to warn you that your computer has been infected with a virus.

Me: My computer has a virus, eh?
Him: Yes, your computer has a virus.

Me: Where did you say you were calling from?
Him: IT Solutions.

Me: No, I mean, where is your company located?
Him [after I asked several times]: The United States.

Me: Where in the United States?
Him: New York. [My caller ID showed "Bellevue, WA."]

Me: And what's your company's phone number?
Him [Says number far too fast to understand].

Me: Whoa, too fast. Please say your phone number slowly so I can understand it.
Him (after dodging the question a few more times): 717-310-3925. [My caller ID showed 425-998-1533.]

Me: You say my computer has a virus. So, what kind of computer do I have?
Him: I'm sorry?
Me: If you know my computer has a virus, then you should know what kind of computer I'm using. What kind of computer do I have?
Him: Windows NT or Windows 7. [My computer is a Mac, so there are no Windows computers in my home.]

Me: Nope. This is a scam, and I'm reporting it to the police. Goodbye!

How This Scam Steals Your Information

Actually, I didn't call the police. I called the Washington State Attorney General's office, since the call appeared to be from Washington. The operator said that the number my caller ID showed was probably fake, too. These scammers are usually off-shore and have ways to reroute the number.

She also said she had just gotten off the phone with another victim of a "your computer is infected with a virus" scam call in which the fraudster claimed to be calling from Microsoft. In that case, the victim let the phony company install malicious software on her computer.

Malicious software lets a stranger do the following over your internet connection:

Access all information and documents stored on your computer
Track your typing so that they can log all your passwords, credit card numbers, or anything else you type
Monitor your purchases, your email, your web browsing
Control your computer without your knowledge, using it to send viruses out to everyone on your email contacts list
Lock you out of your computer and damage or erase its contents
Usually they'd rather not erase your hard drive, since it's more useful to turn your computer into a "zombie," operating or accessing it remotely without your knowledge. Huge networks of "zombie" computers are pressed into service by scam companies for all kinds of purposes! The "zombie" computer's real user cannot tell their computer is serving another master, except perhaps by the fact that the computer seems to have slowed down slightly.

Looking online, I saw more reports of people being scammed by telemarketers claiming to be calling from Microsoft with, "Your computer has been infected with a virus." I'm sure the real IT Solutions isn't connected with this scam: my telemarketer just borrowed a respectable company's name to sound more convincing.

[Update: I initially suggested just hanging up on these con artists, but a commenter below has a good suggestion: tell them that are recording the conversation for your records. In at least one case, this stopped the calls for good.]

If you've been a victim of this scam, look up your state attorney general's website and search for a "fraud report" or "consumer complaints" area. Here's some useful links below (I reported this call to both of them):

Where to Report Phone Fraud

National Do Not Call Registry
The U.S. National Do Not Call Registry allows you to register your phone number. U.S. telemarketers are legally required to check this list; if they call numbers on it, they're liable for prosecution. Enforcement isn't great, but every bit helps.
FTC Bureau of Consumer Protection - Consumer Information
The Federal Trade Commission doesn't resolve individual consumer complaints, but if there's enough reports of the same fraud, they may be able to go after the scam and shut it down.
What If They Put a Virus on My Computer?

How to Remove Malware From Your Windows PC | PCWorld
I am NOT a Windows user, so unfortunately I don't know how to clear out viruses and spyware on a PC. This article from PCWorld looks like an excellent guide; I hope it helps!
Got a Computer Virus? Here's What to Do (and Not Do)
Here's another good guide, and the "What NOT to do" tips are worth checking. If it were my PC, I'd take it to a repair shop I trusted (assuming there is such a shop) to let an expert check it over.

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0 Always Check Your Power Supply First

I can not stress this enough. Regardless of your next graphics card's price point you need to make sure that your Power Supply Unit (PSU) can handle the new card. Cards under $100 usually do not need a high wattage power supply. The rule of thumb is always check your wattage and specs of your current PSU. If you are not sure of your current specs do a search of your particular computer's model (Ex. HP Pavillion Model No.) and find the specifications. If you built your own computer you will have to open the case and get the model number from the unit itself.

Make sure that your current power supply can handle your new graphics card. You need enough power to run it properly or you will run into issues. Power supplies are not overly expensive in most cases, so add the extra $80 just to be safe, especially if you are overclocking (mentioned later). Make sure you get the best quality PSU brand you can afford as a low quality PSU can destroy your entire system!

To prevent that from happening go to a PSU calcualator linked at the bottom of this hub to check what kind you need, and also read the manufacturer's minimum requirement for power and aim at least 100w above that just in case. So if the company says "Minimum PSU Wattage: 500w" buy a 600w or more to be safe. Don't go cheap or low quality brand though as said before.


IMPORTANT NOTE: Always aim ABOVE what the minimum requirement of the graphics card company says. If the company says it requires a minimum of a 500w power supply get at least a 600w power supply. This is for safety sake and you also have to factor in that other components draw power from your PSU along with your graphics card. Also never go with low end or low rated companies for your PSU. The last thing you want to have happen is a cheap power supply destroy your whole computer! So go with brands like Antec, Seasonic, Thermaltake, or Corsair.

AGP or PCI Express Slot

This is mostly irrelevant by today's standards, but if your PC is over 10 years old check your computer's specifications to make sure you have a PCI Express slot on your motherboard. PCI Express 3.0 is compatible with earlier PCI Express versions but not AGP. So keep that in mind! AGP does not work in PCI Express and vice versa.


To keep it simple SLI (Nvidia) and Crossfire (ATI/AMD) are systems in which you run multiple video cards in one system simultaneously.Both systems let you run up to 4 graphics cards simultaneously.They both are very similar in that you need identical cards to run them as one card.

The advantage is you get double the performance, but it draws double the power from your power supply. Most cards today are compatible with SLI and Crossfire but keep in mind an Nvidia card can not be combined with an ATI card and vice versa. This is a great option for power users but it also brings a new set of problems (which are too vast for one hub).

My advice here is to get ONE CARD with the budget you would have for two and buy ONE CARD with that maximum budget. Reason being is that two $75 cards may or may not equal the same performance level of a single $150 card.

Overview of Price Points

Now that we have the basics out of the way its time for an explanation of different price points.In this section I will highlight the different price points of graphics cards and what you can expect out of each price point.

Remember that you do "Get what you pay for", but the build quality of a $25 low price card should be equally reliable to that of a $300 enthusiast card.

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0 Best Graphics Card GPU Combos Under

In the $500 range we've got a lot more flexibility in terms of both our CPU and graphics card. I feel like your best bet is to try and fit in a GTX 770. That leaves you about $200 for your processor. Like before you can choose to overclock something like the 8320 or jump up to the i5-4670k here.

If you're an editor or have need for a better CPU, then you could even jump to the i7-4770k. That would certainly improve performance on multithreaded applications and rendering.

That being said the combo of the i5-4670k and GTX 770 seems to be the best overall gaming option for those looking for the stability in a decent processor and solid FPS right now with a card I'd classify as stuck in the mid to high-end tier.

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0 Graphics Card CPU Combo Under $300

FX 6300 and R7 265 or GTX 660

You could still make the argument in this price range that going with something like the 8320 and the GTX 750 TI is the better overall value here. It won't get you quite as much FPS now, but having a much better CPU in the 8320 will allow your PC to stay relevant for longer.

That being said the FX 6300 is no chump in games. Pair it with the R7 265 if your most graphically intense game is Battlefield 4 and with the GTX 660 if it's something else. If you can find the HD 7850 cheap, then it's also a viable option here.

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0 A Good Graphics Card CPU Combo Under

R7 260X and Athlon 760k

Combining AMD's budget processor with a solid graphics card will net you some good overall FPS in games especially if you're willing to tweak the settings. Even if you're not, then you'll still be able to play games like Battlefield 4 on ultra (2 x AA) with a framerate above 30FPS.

The Better CPU Choice:

If you'd rather sacrifice some FPS for a better CPU later, then go for the FX 6300 along with something like the HD 6670. It certainly won't give you great FPS on high settings, but it will allow you to play most games in low to medium settings in 1080p without a problem.

Upping it $50 for an Under $250 Budget:

If you really wanted to get a little more FPS you'd up the price point a bit and reach for the new GTX 750TI. Overall, it wouldn't give you a lot more performance in a game like Battlefield 4, which is optimized for AMD, but it would give you a significant 10-25% improvement in other games.

That being said if it's me my first priority would go to the CPU. Switching from a processor like the 760k to the 6 core FX 6300 seems like the better move overall.

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0 Best Gaming CPU and Graphics Card Combo for the

As someone who runs a gaming blog, a website, and YouTube channel I often get asked what CPU and graphics card combo that I think gives people the best value for their money in a certain price range.

While I do respond actively to reader and viewer comments and questions my answer often varies depending on what's for sale and what the current market looks like.

You see, it's more than just an AMD Vs. Intel Vs. NVIDIA question. While there are benefits and advantages to all of these brands there are often deals that arise that make one choice vastly superior to another. This post will feature what I like right now and be updated occasionally to reflect changes I see in the market. If you have a current question, then you can always leave me a comment here or at facebook.com/toptengamer and I'll be reasonably quick to respond.

Choosing a CPU - Intel Vs. AMD

There are processor company fanboys for both of these companies who don't really care about prices and performance. That being said there is hardly a time I can remember when either Intel or AMD didn't work at a certain budget level.

Right now here's how I see the benefits of both:

Advantages to Using Intel CPU:

Better single core performance. Call me captain obvious, but this is a big deal in games that aren't optimized for a multitude of cores like AMD likes to provide. Overclocking can make up some of the gap.
Better power efficiency.
Superior options for high-end users seeking max FPS and performance.
Advantages to Purchasing an AMD CPU:

CPUs come with additional cores at lower prices. Mantle technology means that some games are better optimized for AMD CPU.
Better budget options for those looking for more cores.
APU technology is a solid alternative for price points under $300.
Choosing Your CPU on a Per-Game Basis

As many of you know what CPU is better for a particular game may come down to the game that you're playing. Knowing what game you're playing that is most intense may give you the best indication of what processor you should purchase.

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1 The Best Mobile Broadband Deals in South Africa 2014

The price of mobile broadband in South Africa is coming down, slowly but surely. Compared to ADSL it’s usually a more affordable option, anyway. There’s no lines, no installation fees, no monthly line rental costs, and it’s a lot more portable as you can use mobile broadband with smartphones, USB modems, laptops, iPads, etc. And if the data is loaded on to a SIM card, which it usually is at least in my experience, you can switch and put it in different devices on the trot. Mobile broadband is the way forward.

Yes, people who have actually managed to get a line put in by Telkom as long as they live in the right area, can go to some select ISPs and get 1 GB of data at usually low cost. Some even provide data for free for a period, or just as a once off. And they can have multiple ISPs. But there are a lot of other costs, that I mentioned above, that go with it. And like I said, Telkom may not be bothered to come and put in a line in the first place. You stand a better chance if you run a business, preferably nearer, or in the CBD, or if you live in a newer area. If you live in an older area, especially on the urban fringe, then your chances are not good. Telkom also doesn’t like putting lines in because they often get stolen by cable thieves, looking to sell the metals, like copper, inside. Telkom then has WiMax – but the last time I checked, they weren’t really bothering with any new installations, although they will reportedly maintain existing ones.

So apart from that old dinosaur known as dial up, there’s mobile broadband and it’s becoming more and more popular as a cheaper and less hassle alternative to ADSL. There are five main mobile carriers that cater to mobile broadband demands in South Africa: Vodacom, MTN, Cell C, 8ta, and most recently Telkom Mobile – the last two are both owned by Telkom, but are indeed separate networks.

I recently went around looking for the best mobile broadband deals that can be had. Note that I'm focusing on 3G and 4G here, and not any Wi-Fi services.


Legacy customers who subscribe to selected contract deals on the Vodacom network will have their monthly data amounts increased to either 3 GB or 5 GB at no extra cost as of August, 2013.

Vodacom

Vodacom, owned by British company Vodafone, is ranked the number one cellular network in South Africa, – and why wouldn’t they be? They’ve been around longest, since the mid 1990’s. They have over a 50% market share with more than 23 million subscribers.

They have however traditionally been one of the most expensive when it comes to offering mobile broadband deals. Their prepaid data bundles have been quite expensive for some time – unchanged for several years, in fact – with only a recent price drop. 2GB – the entry level; probably the absolute minimum anyone should be looking to get – goes for R249. But Vodacom does have prepaid data bundles that go all the way up to 20 GB, which currently sells for R499 (it was R3620!). This is something I haven't really seen from competitors, who usually stop at about 5 GB or less on a once-off prepaid data bundle deal.

Vodacom’s contract offers are quite enticing, often offering double the amount of data advertised, but half of it is only valid during Night Owl hours, which is between 12 AM and 5 AM. This means if you happen to be the type who burns the candle at both ends (and you can pass a credit check), it may just suit you. Each contract deal has a R202 SIM and connection fee.

Vodacom prepaid data bundles

Data amount	Price	Validity
30 MB	R12	30 days
100 MB	R29	30 days
250 MB	R59	30 days
500 MB	R99	30 days
1 GB	R149	30 days
1.2 GB (100 MB x 12)	R99 (including modem - was R399)*	30 days x 12
2 GB	R249	30 days
3 GB	R299	30 days
5 GB	R399	30 days
10 GB	R599	30 days
20 GB	R999	30 days
12 GB (1 GB p/m)	R999	30 days x 12
24 GB (2 GB p/m)	R1499	30 days x 12

All deals listed, except the 12 GB and 24 GB deals, are at a promotional price. Promotional Price.

Vodacom contract deals

Data amount	Price	Validity
10 MB	R9 p/m	30 days x 24
30 MB	R25 p/m	30 days x 24
100 MB	R49 p/m	30 days x 24
250 MB	R99 p/m	30 days x 24
500 MB (+ 500 MB Night Owl*)	R39 p/m**	30 days x 24
750 MB	R220 p/m	30 days x 24
1 GB (+ 1 GB Night Owl*)	R69 p/m (R79 w/ modem)**	30 days x 24
1.5 GB	R299 p/m	30 days x 24
2 GB (+ 2 GB Night Owl*)	R99 p/m (R109 w/ modem)**	30 days x 24
2.5 GB	R429 p/m	30 days x 24
3 GB (+ 3 GB Night Owl*)	R169 p/m (R179 w/ modem)**	30 days x 24
5 GB (+ 5 GB Night Owl*)	R259 p/m (R269 w/ modem)**	30 days x 24
10 GB (+ 10 GB Night Owl*)	R499 (R509 w/ modem) p/m**	30 days x 24
20 GB (+ 20 GB Night Owl)	R999 p/m (was R2859)	30 days x 24

Off peal hours on the Vodacom network are between 12 AM and 5 AM. Promotional price. All deals require a R202 sim and connection fee.

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